Thursday 28 December 2017

FLORENCE by Marilyn Rowland

On a recent visit to Florence, Jethro and I spent a glorious afternoon visiting the famous synagogue in what still appears to be a small but thriving Jewish quarter.

In 1868 David Levi, President of the Hebrew University, bequeathed his possessions for the building of this new synagogue. On first approaching it you are struck by the sight of the huge oxidised dome and you can’t help noticing the similarity to a mosque.

This is because the Sephardis who built it based it on the Moorish style, with a dome flanked by towers. The interior of the synagogue is stunning and walking around is awe-inspiring. The ladies’ galleries are picked out by sun streaming through the beautiful stained glass windows. 

From September 1943, entire Jewish families were deported from Florence, including children and residents of the Jewish Home for the Aged. Almost all of them - over four hundred in number -perished in Auschwitz. The doors of the holy Ark still bear marks inflicted by Fascist bayonets. During the Nazi occupation the synagogue was used as a garage, and it was also mined by the retreating Germans. Outside there is a garden filled with exotic plants and a Sukkah was there too - a very peaceful and moving place. The names of the 248 Jews of Florence who were murdered by the Nazis are memorialised in the garden, where a smaller plaque lists Jews who died fighting for Italy during the First World War. 

The first floor museum is fascinating, with some sections illustrating the history of the Florentine Jews, including during World War Two, and also displaying some very impressive – and very old - religious and ceremonial objects from brit gowns to yads. Next door to the synagogue is a lively Kosher restaurant – we tried to eat there but it was bursting at the seams!

By Marilyn Rowland

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